12.12.11

Floyd Cardoz

Specialty:
New Indian cuisine

The New York restaurant scene would be a vastly different place if Floyd Cardoz had continued studying biochemistry rather than switching to catering school. While the switch may have shocked family and friends at the time, the culinary world is all the better for it.

Raised in India, the chef had originally set his sights on becoming a doctor or marine biologist. Cardoz underwent culinary training in both India and Switzerland, resulting in a blend of traditions, techniques, and flavors that would influence his cuisine for years to come.

Landing in New York City, Cardoz was hired at Lespinasse, where he met his mentor, chef Gray Kunz. The two chefs shared a similar approach and philosophy, and during Cardoz’s five years within those hallowed kitchens, Kunz encouraged him to experiment with the Indian spices of his youth.

In 1998, Cardoz left Lespinasse to open Tabla with famed restaurateur Danny Meyer. As both executive chef and partner in the new restaurant, the bar was set high. The soft-spoken chef delivered and then some, creating a menu that’s as outspoken and flavorful as he is modest.

His new Indian cuisine made a splash with its debut, quickly earning a three-star review from the New York Times. The accolades continue to come: In 2003, Bon Appetit named Cardoz a “True Innovator” in the Annual Restaurant Edition of the publication.

Representing the full spectrum of Indian flavor and spices, Tabla goes through $10,000 worth of spices a month, mostly using coriander, cumin, and black peppercorns. Protective of flavor, Cardoz made sure Tabla’s kitchens would include a spice room, separate from the heat of the kitchen, where spices are kept in sealed containers.

On top of his work at Tabla, Cardoz released his first cookbook in 2006, One Spice, Two Spice, and in 2008, launched a ready-made line of meals for FreshDirect.

Fun fact:
Cardoz has a weakness for Häagen-Dazs dulce de leche ice cream — it’s one of his top junk-food picks.

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